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In this category you will find the selection of oils marketed by MipMed!
Essential Oils, Vegetables and Synthetic Essences
What Are Essential Oils?
Essential Oil is any group of natural active principle, with volatile power and variable fragrance, coming from leaves, flowers, stem, stalks, stem, petiole, bark, roots or other elements produced by practically all plants (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010; FERRAZ, 2019).
They are made up of hundreds of chemical substances, such as alcohols, aldehydes, esters, phenols and hydrocarbons and are called volatile, refringent, ethereal or essential, because they evaporate when exposed to air at normal temperatures (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010) ). The essential oil participates in several important activities for the vitality of the plant species from which it is extracted, ensuring adaptive advantages in the environment in which they are inserted, for example, in defense against cold and predators, in metabolism, in regeneration, in the attraction of pollinators, in water control, in plant protection and conservation (MIRANDA et al., 2016). Characteristically, they have their own odors, have a density generally lower than that of water, a high refractive index, are sensitive to light and air, most are optically active, are relatively fluid (and can solidify at lower temperatures).
I would like to emphasize that essential oils are only natural substances that form inside plants. When copies of these oils are made in laboratories, these are called essences and can be identified with the name of the plant from which the original essential oil was extracted.
Therefore, only natural essential oils, which meet certain quality criteria, have functionality for therapeutic application. The essences do not have such functionality, and can only be used as a perfuming agent for personal care products, perfumes and sanitizers.
As seen earlier, essential oils are natural active ingredients, extracted directly from plants. Synthetic essences, on the other hand, are a synthesis of petroleum derivatives and components found in the original essential oils, which do not have the same formation process nor its complexity (AMARAL, 2016; FERRAZ, 2019). Synthetic essences are widely used in the perfume, cosmetics and sanitizing industries (substances used for cleaning and disinfecting environments and in water treatment), which makes their price a little more affordable than that of essential oils, which due to their shape extraction, makes the product more expensive.
For example, see the differences in the amount of components of Lavender Essential Oil and the Essence of the same perfume.
Lavender Essential Oil Components
Lavender Essence Components
Finally, I leave an important tip for your life and future clinical practice: knowing that essential oils have affinities with human cells, while essences do not, and that synthetic substances in treatments can generate distorted results, use both with very careful and always respecting the indication of each one.
Some treatments with essential oils consist of applying these to the patient's skin. For these techniques, it is necessary that the essential oil is associated with a substance, called base. In this sense, vegetable oils are important bases, as they have a natural affinity with the skin tissue.
What are Vegetable Oils? Vegetable oils are substances rich in fatty acids, vitamins and nutrients such as mineral salts. They come from oil plants and can be extracted using the cold pressing technique of grains, such as corn and soybeans; chestnuts, such as Brazil nuts, coconuts and sweet almonds; from seeds such as sesame, sunflower and grape seed; and fruits such as olives, avocado and argan (AMARAL, 2016). They are able to promote skin softness and moisturizing, as they penetrate quickly, lightly and smoothly, in addition to helping to maintain natural hydration and reduce the speed of dehydration, reducing the loss of transdermal water from the skin (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA , 2010). When applied, they are fully absorbed, as they adhere and mix with the lipids produced by the skin, without leaving it greasy, as occurs when applying a mineral oil, which is more occlusive and waterproof. Most patients have good acceptance with the use of vegetable oils in Health and Wellness treatments, for example body massage, foot massage, facial and hair treatments, etc.; however, in general, it is believed that the application of oils to the skin and hair increases oiliness, which impairs its acceptance by some people. This information is not true when it comes to the use of pure vegetable oils, as they quickly integrate into the hydrolipidic mantle, contributing to the control of transdermal water loss and to the supply of fatty acids as an energy source for the cellular environment, without cause occlusion of the pores and, consequently, without leaving the skin (or hair) oily. Unlike vegetable oils, when we apply mineral oils, the patient feels the sensation of excess oiliness, because these oils are semi-occlusive, closing the pores and preventing the penetration of water; hence its use in babies, in diaper changes.
In the association of essential oils with vegetable oils, they are immediately mixed, without the need to use an emulsifying or homogenizing agent. If the application is on the skin, the essential oils are fixed in the vegetable oils, being slowly released to the individual's skin system. It is worth remembering that, in cosmetic formulations, for massages and various treatments, the concentration of essential oils in vegetable oil should not exceed 2%, and in these combinations, vegetable oils are called carrier oils or base oils (AMARAL, 2016). Having said that, let's get to know the composition of vegetable oils and, then, the criteria for you to choose the best vegetable oil for your clients' treatments. Composition of Vegetable Oils Vegetable oils are also known as triacylglycerols (triglycerides, triacylglyceride, triacylglyceride), which is their chemical name, and as vegetable oils or animal fats, which are their popular names (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010; PRICE , 1996). They belong to the class of lipids and are formed by a glycerol and three equal or different fatty acids, forming a particular type of ester (triacylglycerol), as shown in Figure 5 (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010; PRICE, 1996) .
Glycerol is the common component in almost all fixed oils, and what sets them apart is the nature of the fatty acids it contains. It is a colorless, odorless, viscous liquid, and its name is derived from the Greek word glykos, meaning “sweet”. Its importance in the context of vegetable oils comes from the fact that it is one of the precursors of triglycerides – which are a lipid form specialized in energy storage – and of phospholipids – which are the main constituents of the biological membranes of cells and organelles. It can also be used in the formation of glucose and energy supply for cell metabolism (AMARAL, 2016). Fatty acids are organic compounds that are poorly soluble in water, produced when fat breaks down, and are also considered a source of energy for cells. They are divided into saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated, in which polyunsaturated (essential fatty acids) are the most indicated as part of the diet, as they provide the body with a series of benefits, being called "good fats". How to Choose Vegetable Oils To choose the best vegetable oil, you, the future health care professional, need to know some characteristics and specifications of these products and then be based on two main criteria: 1. The type of skin and its condition : injured, healthy, irritated, aged, oily, smooth, porous, dry, etc. 2. The type of treatment: styling, gliding, penetrating, relaxing, moisturizing, moisturizing, etc. (AMARAL, 2016). Following these steps, you will obtain the best results in the proposed treatments, guaranteeing the excellence of your work and, above all, the satisfaction of your customers. Now, let's get to know the structural and unique properties of vegetable oils a little better, which will facilitate their recognition and choice. It is important to understand that vegetable oils are composed of substances that the human body produces and others that it is not capable of producing, and that there is a great similarity in the chemical structure of vegetable oils, leaving the impression, to the touch, that they are very similar and can all be applied in the same way, but this is not true (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010). Each one has unique fatty acid content, vitamins and characteristics and, thanks to current technological development, we are able to use high quality vegetable oils. According to Amaral (2016), in Brazil, pure vegetable oils of international quality can be purchased, which are found in specialized retailers. Even so, for the professional to be sure of the origin and quality of the vegetable oil, he must identify some standards and specifications. These are shown on the product label and will be detailed below.
Trade name or popular name This is the name of the plant or part of the plant that supplies the vegetable oil, eg coconut oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, etc. Only this nomenclature does not define if the product is really natural, if it contains chemical substances or if the plant is really of the desired species; to obtain this information accurately, it is necessary to look on the label for the scientific name of the plant and also the INCI name (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient), otherwise it is not pure (AMARAL, 2016; FERRAZ, 2019). Scientific name Name displayed on the label of a product when it is of plant origin, for example, Vitis vinifera, which is the scientific name of grape seed oil (AMARAL, 2016; CORAZZA, 2010; FERRAZ, 2019). INCI name (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient) It is the international standardization and organization of cosmetic ingredients in a safe and simplified way, facilitating the identification of any component of a formulation from any country (AMARAL, 2016).
Mother Fernanda Gomes Lodi
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